Goodbye Armenia

Tbilisi (Georgia), 12.05.2013

On the road we’re avoiding potholes, this morning around our camping site we had to do the same but with cow dung. The day started at around 06:00 and we remembered the cows looking at us last night with great astonishment as we occupied their territory. We had a cold shower with water from the river, and it was freeeezing cold and no sunshine yet. Not easy, but two coffees and some exercise (all day long on bumpy roads in a car seat takes a toll on our backs) and by 08:48 we were on the road. The early bird effect is really great, until 10 or 11 the day is different, fewer people are around and we had just more hours to move on. The first hour was all up the mountain, mud track, pothole to pothole. Then we approached Lake Sevan, filled up with diesel and food and continued along the western shore of the lake. Continue reading “Goodbye Armenia”

Azerbaijan by Night

Baku (Azerbaijan), 13.05.2013

The day starts with a panoramic view over Tbilisi as the sun rises, some clouds – it could be a painting. A quick breakfast on Betsy’s Hotel’s fantastic terrace, and off to GT Motors through the crazy Tbilisi morning traffic. The guys there were super friendly, we fixed the car together in 1,5h and now feel comfortable to survive quite a bit without problems. We just have too much weight on the roof. Continue reading “Azerbaijan by Night”


Yerevan (Armenia), 08.05.2013

In 3,5 weeks of traveling today has been the first bad day, from beginning to end. It all started in the hotel in Tbilisi, where we received three bags of laundry that we had to undo, fold and pack into our bags, in the dining room since the hotel had no elevator and carrying all the stuff to the fourth floor only to carry it down again was no option. When we checked out the big surprise came: the agreed rate for two nights doubled! Our first rip off, by the sinister hotel owner, a fat guy with no manners, that started shouting at Helena in Georgian. We packed and were ready to go but the discussion kept going on. Then he wanted to charge us extra for the credit card payment. And then, miracle!, the credit card machine didn’t work and he wanted to take me in his car to some other place to pay. No way, my friend! We picked up some cash, paid and left, with 1h delay. And it was raining. Continue reading “Armenia”


Tbilisi (Georgia), 07.05.2013

Honestly we did not have a lot of expectations when we arrived in Tbilisi. After a day crossing soviet-ruined landscapes and not finding food on the road except a leaf of bread (flavoured by hair of the baker…) our mood was very “let’s get things done and then out of here”. But what a surprise this town is! Already yesterday, searching for a hotel, we drove through many parts of the city, new and old, and were surprised to find lovely spots, city life, an old town with bohéme and restored parts. It is orthodox Easter these days, and the hotels we had screened were all full. A friendly girl in one of them helped us find one with a room available, and she also booked us a table in the Shadow of Metheki (“our president’s favourite restaurant”). We went there with no expectations, and a bit scared of the live music. Once inside and eating, the music confirmed all our fears but the delicious food and great wine thrilled us. A strong Chacha (grappa) closed the dinner properly. Continue reading “Tbilisi”

Georgia of Contrasts

Tbilisi (Georgia), 06.05.2013

What a day! We’re finally back at our hotel and completely exhausted from this day so full of contrasts. It all started so well, waking up in a field of yellow flowers and bees all around, sun shining, and an opulent georgian breakfast. And Nelly, the house cow, came back home finally after a long night out with her friends, to deliver the daily 5l of milk. Continue reading “Georgia of Contrasts”

Güle Güle Türkiye, Hey Georgia

Batumi (Georgia), 04.05.2013

Lots of episodes today, we have a story for tree huggers, for puppy lovers, for adventure boys and cynics. Let’s go one by one. We woke up at 0700 with a spectacular view out of the tent on the lake we discovered the night before. To start the day properly, we went for a “swim” in the lake. If water wouldn’t freeze at minus degrees we’d say it felt like minus twenty. So it must have been right above zero, and therefore the swim lasted like 15 seconds. But once we got out it became quite hot right away. We also had our first outdoor shower with the “camping douche” we bought in Cannes. And we shared our morning coffee with the camping site owner of Iskele Cafe, a very friendly man we barely got to know since his English was basic and our Turkish non existent. Continue reading “Güle Güle Türkiye, Hey Georgia”

Georgia Must Wait

Tortum Gölu (Turkey), 03.05.2013

It should have been the day to leave Turkey, but this country is too beautiful to let go. Like every day we wanted to wake up at 7, breakfast at 8, be on the road at 9. And obviously it’s not happening, we left Kars at 11:00. We drove through the city, saw the castle, acknowledged that it is indeed a beautiful Russian designed town with a lot of 19th century European houses. But we chose to dedicate our time to Ani, a ghost town right on the border with Armenia, 45km east of Kars. The half hour drive is scenical, and when we arrived at the village right before the ancient site, we could witness a wild horse domestication scene. Local men caught the the horses, put bridle on them and then tried to ride on them (video here). What a show, while we had our morning coffee from our mobile bar and restaurant. Continue reading “Georgia Must Wait”

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