Back to Osh

Osh (Kyrgyzstan), 11.10.2013

Walking down to the river for the morning bath we were greeted by an army of oversize mosquitoes hungry for some fresh tourist blood. The bath was cold and refreshing, the mountain river felt so good after days of dust, camping shower and escaping strange locals. After breakfast we packed, and it was time to say goodbye to Diana and Nico, the German couple we met up here and not only hauled us out of the mud lake, but also revealed to be very fine people. Their trip is longer then ours and their car will take them to roads we won’t be able to drive on. Maybe we’ll meet again in Russia or Mongolia at the end of the year. Good luck guys! Continue reading “Back to Osh”

Almost Afghanistan

Wakhan Valley (Tajikistan), 08.06.2013

Back in Europe, when I prepared the trip, I read the small Afghanistan section in the LP guide and it intrigued me instantly. It is a fascinating, mystic country, and the danger of decades of conflict naturally draws attraction, both for the challenge and for curiosity. While this might sound silly, I’m sure every traveller to this region has thought about it. We did so too, and decided we wanted to try to see it. A friend of a classmate of mine works at an NGO in the Afghan part of the Wakhan Valley, we got in touch by email (thanks Aldo for getting us in touch!) and got an idea of what to expect. So yesterday in Khorog we got our visas and the permit for the car from the Afghan consulate there. Continue reading “Almost Afghanistan”

Crossing Fingers in Khorog

Khorog (Tajikistan), 07.06.2013

Today we tried to decide what to do over the next week, since we have several days to spend in the Pamir Mountains before heading back to Kirgistan and then to the Chinese border. First thing in the morning we went to see the Afghan consulate to get a visa. They explained us the procedure and costs (USD 100 per person and 150 for the car). But before getting the visa we needed to fix another issue, our single entry tourist visa to Tajikistan. Continue reading “Crossing Fingers in Khorog”

Through the Pamirs down to Khorog

Khorog (Tajikistan), 06.06.2013
Never before did we have altitude sickness, and these days we’re suffering quite a bit from it. Slight headaches, pain in the arms, heavy breathing, extreme fatigue. Also the Range Rover didn’t recover today. What a pity this beautiful landscape has these side effects. We left Murghab at 09:30 after a stroll through the local market. Initially we made slow progress, the car and the roads don’t allow for much speed and we were in “panorama mood”, “look here!” and “did you see this and that?” At lunchtime we tried to stop several times to cook a hot soup, but the wind up here didn’t allow any gas stove fire. So we prepared a quick canned delicacies salad with fresh cucumbers. Continue reading “Through the Pamirs down to Khorog”

Hello Tajikistan

Murghab (Tajikistan), 05.06.2013

It was a rough start this morning. Drugged by the beauty of the Alau yesterday we forgot to mention that it was 5 degrees Celsius when we went to sleep and that I had started to breathe heavier once we had reached 3500m, feeling very exhausted in the evening after a rather normal driving day. Well, during the night the temperature further dropped. The last time we had camped in the mountains was in freezing cold Armenia, but this time it was worse. And I couldn’t sleep because of the lack of air, the heavy breathing. Continue reading “Hello Tajikistan”

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